Fibre, yarn and fabric
A fibre is a thin, hair-like strand. It is the smallest unit of a textile. Fibres are twisted together by spinning to make yarn (thread). Twist makes the fibres grip each other, so the yarn becomes strong. Yarns are then made into fabric.
Short fibres like cotton and wool are called staple fibres. Very long ones like silk and most synthetics are filaments.
Natural and manufactured fibres
Natural fibres
- Plant (cellulose): cotton (from the cotton boll), linen (flax stem), jute (jute stem), coir (coconut husk). Absorb water, cool to wear.
- Animal (protein): wool (sheep, goat, camel hair), silk (silkworm cocoon). Wool is warm because it traps air; silk is smooth and shiny.
Manufactured fibres
- Regenerated: made from natural cellulose (wood pulp) that is dissolved and re-formed — rayon (viscose), acetate.
- Synthetic: made fully from chemicals, mostly from petroleum — polyester, nylon, acrylic, spandex.
Synthetics are strong, light, quick-drying and wrinkle-resistant, but absorb little sweat and melt near a flame. Natural fibres feel comfortable but may shrink and wrinkle. Blends (like polycot = polyester + cotton) mix the good points of both.
Making fabric: weaving, knitting and non-wovens
- Weaving: two sets of yarns cross at right angles on a loom. Warp yarns run along the length; weft yarns go across. Types: plain (over one, under one — muslin, poplin), twill (diagonal lines — denim) and satin (long floats, shiny). Woven fabric is firm and holds its shape.
- Knitting: one yarn forms rows of interlocking loops, by hand or machine. Knits stretch and are comfortable: T-shirts, sweaters, socks.
- Non-woven: fibres are joined directly by heat, glue, pressure or moisture, without making yarn — felt (namda), face masks, carry bags.
- Others: braiding, lace-making, knotting (macramé, nets).
Finishes
A finish is any treatment that changes how fabric looks, feels or works.
- Look: bleaching (whitens), dyeing (colour through the fibre, e.g. bandhani, tie-dye), printing (colour on the surface, e.g. block or screen printing), mercerising (shine and strength for cotton).
- Feel: softening, stiffening (starch), brushing (fluffy).
- Use: water-repellent, wrinkle-free, shrink-resistant, flame-retardant, moth-proof.
Washing fabrics: care and maintenance
Always read the care label first: it shows washing temperature, bleach, drying and ironing symbols.
Cleaning agents
- Soap: made from oils and alkali; good in soft water, forms scum in hard water.
- Detergent: synthetic; works in hard and cold water.
- Helpers: bleaches (remove stains/whiten), blues and optical brighteners, starch, fabric softeners.
Washing methods
- Friction (rubbing, brushing): strong fabrics such as cotton.
- Kneading and squeezing: wool, silk, delicate items.
- Suction (pressing up and down) and machine washing.
By fibre
- Cotton/linen: hot water (40–60 °C), any detergent, can wring; iron hot while slightly damp.
- Wool: lukewarm water (≤ 30 °C), mild soap, no rubbing or wringing (it felts and shrinks); dry flat in shade.
- Silk: lukewarm water, mild soap, quick wash, dry in shade, warm iron.
- Synthetics: warm water (≤ 40 °C), drip-dry, low-heat iron.
Remove stains while fresh: e.g. cold water for blood, absorbent powder then detergent for oil, lemon and salt for rust.
Storing clothes
- Store only clean and completely dry clothes. Dirt and sweat attract insects; damp causes mould (mildew).
- Keep cupboards dry and airy; sun the clothes before storing.
- Protect wool and silk from moths and silverfish with naphthalene balls, neem leaves or cloves, wrapped in paper.
- Hang shirts and dresses; fold knits so they do not stretch; roll sarees or refold along new lines to avoid tears at the folds.
- Air seasonal clothes in sunlight every few months.
Try it at home
Pull a thread out of an old cotton cloth and untwist it: you will see tiny fibres. Then look at a T-shirt with a magnifier: loops (knitted). Look at a handkerchief: a criss-cross (woven). Finally read the care label on three clothes and sort them into hot-wash and gentle-wash piles.
Key formulas and definitions
- Fibre → (spinning) → Yarn → (weaving / knitting / bonding) → Fabric → (finishing) → Garment
- Natural: plant (cotton, linen, jute) | animal (wool, silk)
- Manufactured: regenerated (rayon) | synthetic (polyester, nylon, acrylic)
- Weave: warp (lengthwise) × weft (crosswise); plain, twill, satin
- Washing: cotton hot + friction; wool/silk lukewarm + squeezing; synthetics warm + drip-dry
- Storage: clean + fully dry + protection from moths
Worked examples
1. Why does a woollen sweater shrink when washed in hot water and rubbed hard?
Wool fibres have tiny scales. Heat, soap and rubbing make the scales lock together (felting), so the sweater shrinks and stiffens. Wash it in lukewarm water and squeeze gently.
2. Which fabric construction suits a cricket player's T-shirt and why?
Knitted fabric, because its loops stretch with movement and let air pass. A polyester–cotton knit also dries quickly.
3. A white cotton shirt has an oil stain from food. How do you remove it?
Act fast: blot extra oil, sprinkle talc or chalk to absorb it, then rub with detergent and wash in hot water (cotton can take it).
4. Classify: jute, nylon, silk, rayon.
Jute: natural plant. Silk: natural animal. Rayon: manufactured, regenerated. Nylon: manufactured, synthetic.
Common mistakes
- Thinking rayon is natural because it comes from wood. It is manufactured (regenerated).
- Mixing up warp and weft. Warp runs along the length; weft goes across.
- Wringing or rubbing woollens. They shrink and felt.
- Storing clothes slightly damp. Mould and smell grow in the dark cupboard.