Traditional weaving and knotting
Weaving joins two sets of threads. The warp threads run lengthwise and stay tight. The weft thread goes across, over and under the warp. A loom holds the warp.
Knotting makes cloth or shapes by tying cord into knots, with no loom. Examples are macrame, fishing nets and woven knots used as gifts and charms in many cultures. People have made both for thousands of years with local plants and wool.
Fibre structures: plain, twill and satin
A structure is the over-under rule. In plain weave the weft goes over one, under one. It is strong and flat. In twill it goes over two, under one and shifts each row, which makes slanting lines, like in denim. In satin the weft floats over many warps, so the face is smooth and shiny.
The same threads look and feel different when the structure changes.
Texture: how it feels and looks
Texture is how a surface feels or looks like it feels: rough, soft, bumpy, smooth. Thick wool gives a soft rough look. Tight thin cotton gives a smooth look. Loops, tassels and knots raise the surface. Mix smooth and rough on purpose so the eye has something to enjoy.
Mixed-media fibre work and a paper-weaving activity
Mixed media means using more than one material. In fibre art you can add beads, ribbon, torn cloth, paper strips, twigs or buttons to threads.
Try it: cut a sheet of coloured paper into strips almost to the edge, leaving a frame (this is your warp). Weave strips of another colour over and under (the weft). Next row, start with the opposite move. You have made plain weave. Now try over two, under one for twill.
Key formulas and definitions
- Warp: upright threads held on the loom
- Weft: the crosswise thread that goes over and under
- Plain weave: over 1, under 1
- Twill: over 2, under 1, shift each row
- Mixed media: fibre plus other materials
Worked examples
1. In a plain weave the weft goes over warp 1. What does it do at warp 2 and in the next row at warp 1?
At warp 2 it goes under. In the next row it does the opposite: under warp 1 and over warp 2.
2. You want a surface that is smooth and shiny. Which structure fits?
Satin, because the weft floats over many warps and there are few interlacing points.
3. Name two ways to make a woven piece feel bumpy.
Add knots or loops, or use thick wool and tassels on top of a thin cotton base.
Common mistakes
- Mixing up warp and weft. Warp stands up, weft goes across.
- Pulling the weft too tight so the edges curve inward.
- Repeating the same row. The next row must start with the opposite move for plain weave.
- Using too many materials with no plan, which hides the weave.