Structure and parts of a kimono
A kimono is made of rectangles. The body (mi-goro) is two long panels, front and back. Each runs from the front hem over the shoulder to the back hem, so each panel is about twice the body length. The sleeves (sode) are two rectangles folded and sewn at the arm. The front overlap strip (okumi) is a narrow panel that lets the front wrap across. The collar (eri) is a long strip sewn around the neck and down the front.
Choosing materials
Kimono cloth comes as a tanmono: a roll about 36-38 cm wide and about 12 m long, enough for one adult kimono. Silk is used for formal wear. Cotton and polyester are used for the summer yukata and daily wear because they are light, easy to wash and cheaper. Choose the cloth by the use, season, pattern and cost. A pattern should flow across the seams, so the rolls are often printed or dyed with this in mind.
Estimating dimensions and cutting
The pieces are measured from the wearer's height, arm length and width. The body length is about the same as the wearer's height. Because each body panel goes from the front hem over the shoulder to the back hem, one strip is about 2 × body length. Two body strips, two front/collar strips and the sleeves add up to the whole roll, about 12 m. Mark with chalk, check twice and then cut straight along the grain. Nothing is thrown away: even leftover pieces are saved.
Sewing and finishing
Panels are joined with straight seams, traditionally by hand with small running stitches. The order is the back seam, the shoulder, the sleeves, the collar and the front strip. Seams are then pressed so that they lie flat, and the hem is fixed. The cut edges are kept wide inside, so that the kimono can be adjusted later.
Dressing in a kimono
To dress, put the kimono on, wrap the left side over the right, fold up extra length at the waist, and tie a sash called the obi. Wearing it right over left is done only for the dead, so always check. A straight cut means the kimono sits well on many body shapes when folded and tied properly.
Key formulas and definitions
- Body length ≈ wearer's height (cm)
- One body strip ≈ 2 × body length (front hem → shoulder → back hem)
- Two body strips ≈ 4 × height
- Tanmono ≈ 36-38 cm wide × about 12 m long
Worked examples
1. A person is 150 cm tall. Roughly how much cloth do the two body strips need?
One strip ≈ 2 × 150 = 300 cm. Two strips = 600 cm = 6 m.
2. If the whole roll is 12 m and the two body strips use 6 m, how much is left for sleeves, collar and the front strip?
12 − 6 = 6 m.
3. A child is 120 cm tall. How much cloth for the two body strips?
4 × 120 = 480 cm = 4.8 m.
Common mistakes
- Thinking a kimono is cut with curves. It is only straight lines.
- Wearing right over left. Always left over right.
- Forgetting that one body strip goes over the shoulder, so it is about twice the body length.
- Cutting before checking measurements twice.